Saturday , October 23 2021

Paris gets Hadid-mania, as Saab and Mugler channel dark, 80s

epa05834313 US model Gigi Hadid presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2017/18 Ready to Wear collection by German designer Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 07 March 2017. The presentation of the Women's ready to wear collections runs from 28 february to 07 March.  EPA/IAN LANGSDON



It was designer Elie Saab’s first collection since his coup of dressing Meryl Streep for the Oscars following the actress’ high-profile spat with Chanel. The deep blue embellishments of Streep’s lauded Oscars gown were picked up again in Saturday’s fall-winter Paris show, inspired by the magical, romantic ballet Giselle. Meanwhile, Paris Fashion Week went gaga for th Hadid sisters.

Here are some highlights:

Dark romanticism wafted in the air with decorative gowns made from velvet, feathers, ribbon and lace — against the set of dark shards of blue light.
The heavy materials at the ready-to-wear show added a textural, almost supernatural quality that evoked the mood of the strange 19th-century ballet in which supernatural women who dance men to death summon Giselle from her grave.
There were some lighter touches too. Tulle organza and silk chiffon fluttered by on diaphanous gowns with high necks that borrowed from Victorian or Edwardian styles. But the collection tried to do too much. Overly divergent styles — such as thigh-high leather boots, an electric blue fur coat and black biker jacket — took away from the collection’s coherence.

The celebrity sibling models Bella, 20, and Gigi, 21, continue to dominate coverage at Paris Fashion Week for both professional and personal reasons — their every move is snapped by photographers.
Gigi Hadid was branded a rock of solidarity by the fashion press simply for holding the hand of her sister, Bella, at H&M’s runway show as they strutted out for the finale awkwardly past Bella’s ex-boyfriend, The Weeknd, who was performing.
Then, there was a media alert sent out because Gigi went outside Friday night with partner Zayn Malik in a revealing Adam Selman Gingham shirt and hoopla earrings. Friday night also saw Bella crowned the face of Dior’s new Diorshow Pump & Volume mascara. She posed for cameras at the posh launch party in Paris’ 16th arondissement in a sheeny, satin bustier gown, with a folded petal-like detail at the bust. It’s a mania that’s not going away soon.

David Bowie may be gone but his influence in fashion is still alive and strutting. Designer David Koma’s ’80s-themed womenswear show for Mugler had more than a hint of the music icon’s famously androgynous styles. It made for quite a fashion spectacle.

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